Wednesday, August 17, 2011
Bayeux, France
PortenBessin: check!
Next stop, Bayeux- a small town centered around the medieval cathedral (see Bayeux Cathedral post). It just so happened that we were in Bayeux for their yearly Renaissance festival. The streets were crowded with patrons adorned in authentic medieval attire who were selling their handmade goods. Browsing the vendors, I found everything from blacksmiths to jewelers to bakers. Which brings me to my next point... lunch. Having known enough French to confuse myself (and others) we decided to grab a quick lunch before heading back to the hostel. There were a few fancy restaurants around, but we decided to take advantage of the festival and eat authentic French cuisine (which I would equate to a burger or some type of sandwhich in the US). So, I waited in a very long line to get, what I though was, a smoked sausage on a baguette. It looked and smelled great. Andouillette. It even had a beautiful French name. They cooked in fresh to order, I was excited to be trying something new (as you can tell from the picture) and for only 3 euros. Due to the sheer size, we decided to share. Best. Decision. Ever.
Thank goodness we were sharing- which required us to split the baguette in half. We found a shady area, sat down, and began breaking it in half. As soon as the middle split open, things I am unsure of began pouring out of the middle. Since I still don't know what they were, I will give you some adjectives that came to my mind when I saw it-- juicy, chunky, jiggly, abnormal, scary... I couldn't even eat the bread it came on. However, it was entertaining to see my group attempt to eat it, without success. In attempt to be portrayed as well-mannered tourists, we waited until there were no French people around us to promptly chunk our baguettes in the nearest trashcan (this will be one of many baguettes that find their way to the trash). After speaking with our leader (who is French) we discover that we were eating intestines in their natural form- straight from the pig. This became the running joke of the trip and made me all the more thankful for everything else I ate.
Lesson learned: Try something new. You may... or may not like it.
Monday, August 1, 2011
PortenBessin, France
PortenBessin, a town located in the region of Normandy, France. Among the many (understatement) places I visited on my trip to Europe, the French countryside (area in and around PortenBessin) resignated the most. It was not at all what I expected of France. Lush, rolling hills... stone cottages with open windows.. cobblestone streets.. and 15th century mansions/castles.
Throughout my study abroad travels, we stayed at hostel-type locations in various towns. Pictured here is an 18th century farmhouse (formerly used for making cider, etc) that has been converted into a hostel. The host, Stella, opens her doors to various groups of students desiring to study abroad. Every morning we woke to clean, crisp air (which my hair loved by the way). There was no need for air conditioning. No busy streets, police sirens, or neighbors for miles away. It was perfect.
Stella's place (as we called it- you know come to think of it, I don't know the actual name of the hostel..) had been renovated on the inside. I was intrigued to find that the outside of the old farm had not been touched. It had so much charm and looked like something straight out of a magazine. Anyway, we slept 3 to a room (bunk-bed style) and each room had its own restroom-shower included. Super clean and super comfortable. There was also a 'lab' which she typically uses to teach French to students from UK, but it served as a computer lab for us. Although there was only one working computer, the grounds had a decent wi-fi connection.
One of the coolest things about Stella's place is that it was only about a 15 minute walk through the most adorable village (filled with quaint cottages) to the coast. Once you reach the coast, you are presented with a breathtaking view of Utah Beach- part of where WWII occurred. You can walk all the way up to the edge of the cliff overlooking the coast. Later in the evening, the tide is up and there seems to be no 'beach' below- just mild waves crashing on the rocks. However, if you go at the right time, you can scale down the side of the cliff by following a very steep, zig-zagging cliff all the way to the bottom which turns into a beach. The tide goes out a little over a hundred yards.. you can carefully, walk over the moss-covered rocks and get to the bottom of the ocean that is usually covered with water. Great place to find sea shells!
On your way back the long, steep trek up the side of the cliff, you might find adventurous cliff gliders-- search in google images.. WOW! I would NEVER do that, but it is amazing to watch..
Stella has one chef on staff to help prepare fresh meals for the guests. We stayed in Stella's place for 2 nights.
To give you an idea of authentic French cuisine, a list of our meals were as follows:
Saturday - late arrival
dinner
baguettes to snack on as appetizers
fresh baked fish with some kind of gravy & roasted whole golden potatoes
*While I am not a fan of seafood, I tried the fish (an act of respect for the chef) and it was... ok. Some people really liked it though.
Sunday- breakfast- croissants/baguettes, instant coffee, hot chocolate (unsweetened), orange juice, and/or water (all at room temp)
*The croissants in France were the absolute best I've ever had.
Lunch- eaten in town
Dinner- Baguette to snack on as appetizer (I have since temporarily boycotted baguettes)
duck spaghetti (it looked like chicken legs over chicken noodle soup)
*Now, I wouldn't consider myself an extremely picky eater, but I do like to keep it rather simple. Duck was a stretch for me..although it had a decent flavor.
Monday- breakfast- you guessed it, baguettes... and a croissant!
After breakfast we left Stella's hostel for the town of Bayeux. (post to come)
The daylight hours are fantastic- the sun rises around 4 am and sets around 11pm. Georgia is 6 hours behind France. Between the time difference and our 9 1/2 hour flight over, it took me about 4 days to get adjusted to their 'daytime'. After that, it was smooth sailing.
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